| 5/5/2010 6:53:47 PM |
This has me stumped, truck "dead" after replace dist cap & rotor |
|
greyhnd
Huntingburg, IN
age: 55
|
Here's the situation. 1988 Chevy S-10 exst cab, auto tranny, 4.3L V6, everything else is stock except aftermarket gauges and a vss sensor from jagsthatrun.com.
The truck had started to have a sputter, buck, and misfire and low speeds (25-35mph)
At highway speed it ran okay. I thought I'd replace the cap & rotor to see if it might help the rough running. Did the change, got everything hooked back up, re-connected the battery, etc. Put the key in and turn on the ignition and nothing happened. I don't mean it turned over and wouldn't start, I mean nothing happened. The starter didn't click, nothing. The weird thing is I have headlights, gauges, interior lightsand anything else that needs the battery to operate.
I only worked near the distributor which is at the back of the block. I can't for the life of me figure out where to even start troubleshooting. Possibly a bad starter solenoid? All my under dash fuses are in good order, but I'm not sure where the fusible links are located in order to check them under the hood.
Any one ever run into something like this or have a suggestion where to start looking first?
Meet singles at DateHookup.dating, we're 100% free! Join now!
|
| 5/5/2010 11:13:48 PM |
This has me stumped, truck "dead" after replace dist cap & rotor |
|
21stcent
South Prairie, WA
age: 58
|
Doesn't that drive you crazy? I'd get a test light and start seeing where the power is and isn't. Could be something simple, don't know until you start working backward from the battery. Have you tried to jump the solenoid at the starter?
saesph will probably know?
[Edited 5/5/2010 11:16:07 PM ]
|
| 5/6/2010 5:16:34 AM |
This has me stumped, truck "dead" after replace dist cap & rotor |
|
saesph1
Centerville, PA
age: 49
|
Sounds like your EGR is stuck open. If you have a 4.3 or 2.8, look for it around the throttle body. You can reach the diaphram under the 3 inch round metal cap with your fingers and see if you can pull it up. Remove it and see if the pintal is seating properly. many times there is a hunk of carbon keeping it open.
This would have fixed the drivability problem. There is a small block with some heavy wires on the firewall behind the distributer. Check for power there, check both battery conecrions for looseness, try to rotate them back and forth on the terminals. Let me know how you make out and we can continue further. This is probably a 5 min fix, though it will take longer over the phone. Toll free, 866-468-2838
[Edited 5/6/2010 5:21:34 AM ]
|
| 5/6/2010 6:45:50 AM |
This has me stumped, truck "dead" after replace dist cap & rotor |
|
greyhnd
Huntingburg, IN
age: 55
|
Thanks guys, this gives me a place to start from. I'll post back what, if any progress I make today.
|
| 5/6/2010 1:44:55 PM |
This has me stumped, truck "dead" after replace dist cap & rotor |
|
greyhnd
Huntingburg, IN
age: 55
|
The problem hqas been solved!! At least the non-starting part is cured. Turns out it's my starter going bad, so I'll have to replace before long. Still has a bit of the sputtering and bucking at low speed, but I think some work on the EGR might solve that part.
I'm also pretty sure the ECM needs to re-learn my drivng patterns. I've read somewhere a procedure to do that and I'll need to try and find that info. At least the truck will start right up and for the modt part runs pretty good.
|
| 5/11/2010 11:43:01 PM |
This has me stumped, truck "dead" after replace dist cap & rotor |
|
vigor445
Murrieta, CA
age: 20
|
also have the head gasket checked it also sounds like the timing is off i just went thru school for it if it runs rough between 25-35 it sounds like maybe the head or timing might be off if the gasket is starting to go it will do that
|
| 5/18/2010 11:11:58 AM |
This has me stumped, truck "dead" after replace dist cap & rotor |
|
model67a
Jasper, IN
age: 63
|
You should try the TPS(throttle positions sensor). This feeds information to the ECM to regulate fuel delivery. You can check it with an OHM meter. Hook the meter up to the leads and rotate the sensor. It the meter does not move smoothly during rotation the sensor is bad. Also you should clean your throttle body with a toothbrush and carbureto cleaner. A lot of time it will get dirty and mess up the fuel mixture. The TPS is supposed to set a code, but I have had vehicles come in the shop , no check engine light and no trouble code on the scan tool. Electronics are really good when they work. LOL
Don't use a test lite on any of the electronic components. Use a 10 megaohm impedence VOM(volt ohm meter). If you hit the wrong wire with a lite you will fry your ECM. When I went to GM school the instructors would not allow a test lite to be in the building.
[Edited 5/18/2010 11:24:52 AM ]
|
| 5/18/2010 5:32:40 PM |
This has me stumped, truck "dead" after replace dist cap & rotor |
|
carbob1956
Concord, CA
age: 54
|
Come on guy's auto shop 101, If it's an older fuel injected system with a driveability
problem we alway's start with the fuel filter, especially if it hasent been changed in a long time.
Some people don't even know they have one, it's along the frame rail in the back by the
gas tank. If thats not it I would head too the plug wires and plugs, thats probably where the problem is. Keep it simple, and move up from there.
|
| 5/19/2010 9:48:59 AM |
This has me stumped, truck "dead" after replace dist cap & rotor |
|
model67a
Jasper, IN
age: 63
|
The reason I suggested the TPS is because it cuts out at a certain speed slot(25-35). This is the slot at which a lot of in town driving is done. The TPS is a variable resistor and the contacts in it get worn and feed an incorrect voltage to the ECM. If it were the filter it would do it all the time. Those filters are nasty little devils though. I have had them so clogged up the vehicle wouldn't even start.
|
| 7/27/2010 6:54:03 PM |
This has me stumped, truck "dead" after replace dist cap & rotor |
|
footguy93
Blairsville, PA
age: 21
|
the tps is supose to put out 5v at wot and like .5v at an idle.
|
| 7/27/2010 8:10:09 PM |
This has me stumped, truck "dead" after replace dist cap & rotor |
|
model67a
Jasper, IN
age: 63
|
You will have a reference voltage of 5V if you are checking it with voltage. The TPS is a variable resistor and the voltage will go up and down as the sensor is moved. The voltage should move smoothly up and down as you actuate the sensor. If you want to do it with and OHM meter you do not have to worry about the electrical current and it will do the same thing. If the voltage or resistance has a big jump or goes to infinity while you a moving the sensor , it is bad.
|
| 7/28/2010 10:26:47 PM |
This has me stumped, truck "dead" after replace dist cap & rotor |
|
intense_city
Aliso Viejo, CA
age: 35
|
I agree, on the sputtering, I think the fuel filter, or perhaps the fuel pump is starting to take a dump. General Motors trucks are not noted for having robust fuel pumps.
|
| 8/5/2010 6:57:55 PM |
This has me stumped, truck "dead" after replace dist cap & rotor |
|
greyhnd
Huntingburg, IN
age: 55
|
Sorry for not posting followup info, I've been away for a bit. I took the advice and replaced the fuel filter first. That sucker was nasty as all get out. Also replaced the plugs and wires, and cleaned the egr valve. I just did a couple 110 mile round trip drives and when I checked the mpg the old truck got between 19 - 20. Haven't gotten mileage like that since I've owned it.
I appreciate everyone giving advice. I'm like a lot of other people, I tend to try and make the fix harder than it needs to be.
|
| 8/23/2010 6:15:02 AM |
This has me stumped, truck "dead" after replace dist cap & rotor |
|
liplokker
Hazard, KY
age: 43 online now!
|
sounds like a wire is loose on starter or main fuse is looseis it in park if not it will not start i would say loose wire
|
| 8/23/2010 4:03:33 PM |
This has me stumped, truck "dead" after replace dist cap & rotor |
|
pepgirl
Brockton, MA
age: 44
|
Check Your IAC (Idle air control motor)
definately can cause rough run and idle
|