I have a 2000 Dodge Caravan....I had the water pump and timing belt replaced..plugs and plug wires...but still have a miss in mine..I never know when its going to do it..sometimes when I start it up it cranks very good and easy too..but it may miss then or it may miss when I start out driving it..it may miss awhile and quit and it may not miss until I'm way down the road no rythm or reason...I've ck vac..hose none off anymore suggestions..this thing is eating me up..but can't afford another one...the motor sounds great when it is running...no water in oil..not losing water...just at a lose...no ck engine lite yet...has come on..

Thanks everyone..I had the plugs and wires changed and had a new water pump and timing belt put on last week....took it over to garage that did that and they found a belt tensior was bad so they replaced that...so I'll see if that helps hope to God it does..I don't have money to keep this thing up....lol

Maybe you can't , but some of us know how.
obviously we cannot fix the car, but we can guide the person in the right
direction, and when they talk to a mechanic,they can do it with more
confidence. Why wouldn't a mechanic be able to "diagnose" through a
computer? If the car owner gives you the year,make,model,brief history,
and the complaint, a mechanic should be able to give an educated opinion.
of course we won't always be right, were only human.
For a lot of people an engine is very confusing,and "diagnosing"
a modern engine "scares" people because they don't "understand"
the basics.
the first step... look at the obvious first, under the hood
thats just common sense.. look for any loose ,damaged,broken ,wires
and hoses.. look for damage caused by heat, ... heat causes a lot of damage
on plastic and rubber parts.
make sure all your "connections" have a good tight / clean fit.
you would be surprised how many times a car is fixed by something
as simple as a rubber hose.
for example ... a rubber vacuum line routed near the exhaust manifold
over time ,that hose will go bad, and if that hose happens to be
an "input" signal from a sensor, the computer will get a false reading,
and the engine will not run right.
all complicated problums require a logical approach.
you need a plan of attack, and you diagnose in proper steps
you follow a procedure....

It's Hyundai Elantra 2003, 4 cyl, 2L, front wheel drive, auto transmission, 30K miles. I bought it new. Had no problems with it whatsoever up until this winter. It died at a red light, which didn't make me feel good at all. The light to check something was on. I was going to work, and boom, my car is dead. I re-started it, and for a while afterwards it was doing something like a power loss, then it was Okay. I have no problem starting it, it's just this. So... I went over to a place called Rainbow Muffler (they do a number of things, not only mufflers), and asked them. A mechanic told me that this has to do with the car's fluids and cold weather. I am blessed to live in the Great Lakes area of the U.S. (midwest, about a mile or so from the lake). I am not sure that the mechanic even looked into it. Anyway, I thought oh well, we are only left with a couple of months of winter, I'll wait and see. Then it happened again. In both cases, the car was practically fairly cold, meaning I only drove about 0.1 or so of a mile, when it died at the red light. After the second occurrence, it was again doing a number with the power loss, at 2.5K rpm I could only go at barely 30 mph. From ever since then, every red light is a nightmare; I expect my car to die anytime. I've developed a habit of putting the car in park when it's at the red light in case it dies again; I don't know if this helps any, but sure makes me feel slightly better if this happens again while the car is in park. I don't know much about cars and I am on a budget. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks. Anna

P.S. I was thinking, I've never had this problem prior to this winter. And the fluids are still the same, for the last six years that I own this car. What could all this do with the fluids? I don't think he was joking... you need to have your idle checked to see if its to low. theres a oil preasure switch on the engine that shuts it off and then puts in limp home mode when it doesnt send the right signal to the ecm,which it wont do if your idle is to low causing your oil preasure to read to low, quit tqking it to a muffler shop, take it to a tuneup shop my 2c's

I witnessed a "ASE master certified tech" install a screw in the fuse block of a vehicle instead walking say 15 feet to get the correct fuse...